
































The challenges of the route
On my cycle ride we were met with two main reactions, both north and south – a disbelief at what we were trying to do (from ‘you are crazy’ to ‘are you serious’?); and the universal hospitality which I believe is part of the true Spirit of Cyprus. I expect no difference on our walk.
Unlike the UK, there is no real walking culture on the island. Hence signage is poor to non-existent, paths are not laid out in any discernible way to make it easy for walkers; what walking paths there are are limited in length and often circular - with the notable and beautiful exception of the Besparmak trail in the north; and there is a real shortage of accommodation and watering or eating stops once you get off the coastal roads. Logistically it is a nightmare to plan this walk – I had to make it up as I went along; what route up and across the Troodos, where to sleep the night or stock up on water and food. Unless you carry your own tent (which we are too old to do) you need constantly available logistical support to get you to and from the route and accommodation and to make sure you can be rescued if something goes wrong. And this is in the south!
On the way we will cross the Troodos range, walking up the Diarizos valley to Troodos square and then taking the E4 European walking path towards Machairas Monastery, passing the Unesco churches of Panayia tou Arakas and Stavros Ayiasmati. Before Macharias we will turn north at Ayios Epiphanios towards Nicosia along the Lakatamia river trail. In Nicosia we will pass through the Ledra Street border crossing and join up with Tugberk, our Turkish Cypriot licensed walking guide. With Tugberk showing us the way we will walk along the Karpass ridge passing Buffavento and Kantara Castles, Pentadactylos and Rizokarpaso to the monastery, the second most important orthodox institution on the island.
I suspect we will be met with the same ‘I don’t get it’ response on the way but can count on the natural hospitality and friendliness of the people we meet .