Day 9
Day 9 Thursday 22st November Nicosia, Ledra Street Crossing to Buffavento
This morning we say goodbye to our southern logistical support team – we will see them again hopefully at Apostolos Andreas at the end of the month to celebrate the Apostle’s name day and to take us back home.
At 8:50am we start by passing through the Ledra crossing into the northern side of the island. We carry just a small back pack and a compact suitcase in which we have the minimal of essentials – change of clothes, blister plasters, paracetamol and chargers for our phones. Len has a larger bag as he goes nowhere without his teapot, teabags and kettle – and he tells me his origins lie in central Europe; yeah, sure…
I must admit that I never feel right about showing my passport at the border crossing points. My family and my wife’s family come from the northern side of the island – its where they were born, grew up, went to school, worked, married, had children, attended church, buried their loved ones, celebrated festivals and name-days. It is their home. It is their roots. It is their identity. All that was wiped away overnight.
Of course they are not alone – and it is not only Greeks with similar stories to tell. Waiting for us on the other side of the crossing is our Turkish Cypriot guide whose family roots lie in the south in the Paphos region.
Tugberk Emirzadi is a licensed guide. He was made known to me by a Greek Cypriot who ran walking tours in the south. Although I felt comfortable researching and guiding our walk in the southern half, there was no way I could have done this for the northern section. I took a chance and went with the advice to contact Tugberk – it was, by far, the best decision we made.
Tugberk was waiting for us with his wife Asle who would collect our bags and take them to our next rest place on the walk. We had only walked about 30 metres so far but we decided to have coffee and make the appropriate introductions and get to know our guide better.
Tugberk and Asle are extraordinary people. Asle was working her way through a PhD at MIT. Tugberk is a Fulbright Scholar with a Master’s degree in plant science – he is so authoritative that he was selected as the designated Environment Minister in the Green party in the general elections in the north just a few weeks earlier. Sadly for Tugberk but fortunately for us the Green Party was not successful so Tugberk was available to guide us. As the father of the Besparmak trail we could not have anyone better, but more of that later.
As we set off and the comfort of familiarity gave way to the insecurity of the unknown the skies opened up and, for the first time on the walk, it rained. An omen perhaps?
We pass through the northern half of the Venetian walled city of Nicosia and exit via the Kyrenia Gate into the suburbs, heading north. Very quickly compared to the time it took us to walk through the suburbs of Nicosia on the southern side we move into countryside. From here we head towards the castle of Buffevento high up in the Karpass range. The range forms a kind of spine that runs along the northern coast of the island to its very tip at Apostolos Andreas monastery.
First we have to cross the plain. This is very open land with few obvious markers and no obvious trail. We cross fields and wasteland and the odd road. Tugberk walks assuredly. The rain has turned much of the plain into mud. A black snake crosses our path – we had been told that snakes weren’t around this time of the year. We zig-zag across terrain that has little to admire, the Karpass, rising above us, getting nearer. Behind us we see the rooftops of Nicosia gradually fade way.
Apart from the occasional stop for water and a snack, we follow our leader in an Indian file. One of these stops, on a small hill, we rest next to what looks like a military camp and there are uniformed personnel coming and going. This makes me uncomfortable and I suggest we move away from a military site. Tugberk tells me it is in fact a cemetery – a special one. Here lie the remains of Turkish Cypriot villagers from Tochni and Zygi in the south killed in one of the most shameful acts committed by Greek Cypriots – specifically EOKA B – during the troubles of 1974. I find it difficult to stay here with its memories of the violence of that hot summer.
By the time we reach the base of the Karpass where we start our climb the sun has come out again. This is more familiar terrain as we climb and with the sun on our backs our mood improves.
Near the village of Bouno (Taskent) we pass the giant Turkish flag which, since the partition, has dressed the slopes of the Karpass, looking down on Nicosia with the southern side of the city particularly in mind. Above this we come to the remains of a Christian Monastery – Panayia Apsinthiotissa with magnificent views over the plain below us and Nicosia in the distance. It provides a seductive resting place under the monastery’s 12th century Byzantine architecture.
From here the track turns east to run along the Karpass range. For walkers it is wide with a good surface and is carved out of the mountain with steep slopes above us and great views below us.
The day is perfect now and we enjoy our lateral walk, great views to our right and craggy mountain peaks rising above us to our left. On one of these peaks, ahead of us, sits the castle of Buffavento.
Buffavento is one of 3 Byzantine/ Frankish castles that sit on the top of Karpass mountain peaks that look over the northern coastline. Their exact origin is uncertain but they were important connected lookout posts for piratical raids during Byzantine times. The castle of St Hilarion also served as a summer residence for the Frankish crusaders who ruled the island for nearly 300 years following Richard the Lionheart’s conquest of the island.
We decline the opportunity to take the steep slip path that takes you to the 3150ft castles remains – we are on a gruelling mission and extra miles, especially uphill, are not welcome options however remarkable the spectacle.
We carry on further past Buffavento. At times the path is narrow and the slope steep. Len does not enjoy these moments. He suffers badly from vertigo – I have experienced his severe discomfort of heights on many occasions and am familiar with the technique he uses to manage it. He hugs the path furthest away from the edge, keeps his head down looking only at his footsteps and walks far away from the rest of us. We know not to approach him until we are through these sections. As we carry on the Pentadaktylos comes into range bathed in the late afternoon setting sun. This is a major landmark on the entire route – but more about this tomorrow.
Finally, just before 16:00 pm, we stop on the trail and wait for our pick up. Asle arrives to take us to our accommodation in Bellapais which lies behind us on the track we have followed. It may be ideal for walkers -for vehicles it requires care and attention. The ‘road’ is curvy and at times barely wide enough for one car with a steep slope on one side. Len keeps his head down.
The accommodation that Tugberk has provided for us is at the Ambelia Village Hotel in Bellapais. It is run by a German lady and we are the only guests. The food is hearty and there is a raging log fire in the dining room that we huddle next to. That night we are treated to a spectacular electrical storm and torrential downpours that rage all night. We hope it passes by the time we start out again tomorrow.
Day 9 stats: Distance 14.9 miles (24.0 Km), total miles 114.8 (184.8 Km)